When US Army Chief of Staff William Tecumseh Sherman set up camp in 1877 on the present site of COEUR D'ALENE , fifty miles north of Moscow on US-95, he found the sparkling blue lake, surrounded by wild flower borders and lush forest, so appealing that he ordered a fort to be built here. Another large structure now stands on the beautiful shoreline of long, narrow Lake Coeur d'Alene; looking not unlike an office block, the phenomenally expensive Coeur d'Alene Resort , which boasts the world's only floating golf green, completely dominates downtown (tel 208/765-4000 or 1-800/688-5253; $100-250+). Not surprisingly, it's a bitter local debating point.

Downtown is unremarkable despite its reasonably appealing sidewalk cafés and rather pricey shops. Directly east of the resort, a small public beach backs onto a balmy park area. Scenic lake cruises leave from the nearby City Dock (three daily in summer; $13; tel 208/765-4000). You can also see the lake on a twenty-minute sea plane flight from here, for $40 with Brooks Seaplane (tel 208/664-2842).

Greyhound buses stop at 157 Spruce St (tel 208/664-3343), situated a couple of miles north of downtown, especially inconvenient as there's no public transport within the town. The Coeur d'Alene Visitor and Convention Services , at 3rd and Spruce streets (Mon-Fri 8:30am-5pm; tel 1-877/782-9232, ), has a good range of free helpful publications. Along Sherman Avenue, the Flamingo Motel at no. 718 (tel 208/664-2159 or 1-800/955-2159; $75-100) is close to downtown, while one of the best B&Bs is Amor's Highwood House , 1206 Highwood Lane (tel 208/667-4735; $75-100), located in a quiet residential area near the lake and also within walking distance of downtown. For eating out, Las Palmitas , 201 N 3rd St (tel 208/664-0581), is a lively, moderately priced Mexican restaurant and bar set in the town's old railroad depot. Of the bars, Moon's Saloon , 204 N 2nd St (tel 208/664-6747), is one of the more interesting, featuring a stuffed grizzly among the decor, a good selection of microbrews, burgers for under $10 and occasional live music and/or comedy. Somewhat more upmarket is Beverly's , a top choice for seafood and meat in the Coeur d'Alene Resort (tel 208/765-4000).